The Yorkshire Dales

Contents

Introduction

These pages attempt to describe in pictures the enduring attraction of the Yorkshire and adjacent Dales. As time and photograph-friendly weather permits more dales will be added.

Ingleton Falls

Ingleton Falls are situated between Kingsdale and Twistleton Dales, close to the town of Ingleton at the western extremity of Yorkshire. A very pleasant walk of something like 4.5 miles takes one through a constantly changing scene of water falls, gorges and gently rising hills as one travels north westward up the River Twiss to Thornton Force, across country to the River Doe and then back down to Ingleton. The route crosses both rivers from time to time, with some spectacular views, including vertically downwards, from the bridges!

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Nidderdale

Nidderdale, approached via Pateley Bridge from the south and Masham from the north, is notable for How Stean Gorge at the northern end and Gouthwaite Reservoir in the centre. The northern route crosses some glorious moorland on the way to Lofthouse, at the northern end of the dale, and is an ideal way to visit How Stean Gorge.

The Gorge itself is well worth a visit, both for its own spectacular setting and for the food prepared and served in the on-site restaurant: watch out for the wandering peacocks! The reservoir also affords some delightful views, although stopping places to admire them are few.

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Swaledale

Swaledale is arguably the most beautiful of all the dales. From Richmond in the east to the moorland west of Keld, where Birkdale and Whitsundale Becks come together to form the fledgling River Swale, the dale is unsurpassed for natural beauty at any time of the year.

In late May and early June the wooded hillsides west of Richmond are covered in wild garlic, adding a splendid aroma to the visual delights. For the seeker of unusual food experiences, a pub in Low Row offers a soup made with the leaves of the wild garlic. It is obviously a seasonal dish and also very popular, so timing is of the essence if one wishes to partake.

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Teesdale

Teesdale, at least in its upper reaches, vies with Swaledale for the title of "Most Beautiful Dale". From its source high in the Pennine Hills the River Tees flows into Cow Green reservoir, an artificially flooded valley, before leaving via Cauldron Snout, the first of the Tees waterfalls. It then flows across the moorland until falling, or thundering, depending on preceding rainfall, over High Force into the dale below.

High Force is a split water fall, similar in nature, but obviously not in scale, to the Niagra and Horseshoe Falls in the United States and Canada. Most of the year water only flows over the western side but, after a few days of heavy rainfall in the Pennine Hills, it can be observed flowing over both sides in spectacular fashion.

For optimum viewing the south western bank of the River Tees is recommended, approached along the Pennine Way from Low Force, another impressive cascade of falls with excellent viewing opportunities and approachable from either side of the Tees. The walk between the two is between 2 and 3 easy miles, rising gently for the last few hundred yards to the brink of High Force.

Visitors to Teesdale wishing to visit High and Low Forces from the Yorkshire (western) side of the River Tees may find that the Strathmore Arms in the hamlet of Holwick will provide an excellent base of operations. A very walker friendly pub with good food and a fine selection of real ales make it an ideal starting, and/or finishing point, although it would be prudent to check opening times before a visit.

On the eastern side of the dale, just north of the village of Eggleston, can be found the Moorcock Inn, another source of fine food and ale with a very welcoming log fire on a cold winter's day!

Before I am corrected, yes I do know that Edward Heath's government purported to re-draw the boundaries of Yorkshire in early 1974, giving parts of the western and southern banks of the Tees to County Durham, but I was a Yorkshireman long before then and an arbitrary decision taken in London hasn't changed my view of the world!

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Weardale

Weardale in Co. Durham is the odd man out in that it is a Durham, rather than a Yorkshire Dale, but it merits inclusion with its peers, not least for the beautiful setting of Durham Cathedral and Castle above the River Wear.

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Wensleydale

Wensleydale is probably best known for its ubiquitous cheese, created in the town of Hawes which lies at the western end of the dale. From Hawes there is a drivers' (as opposed to a motorists') road over the moors to Ingleton, passing en-route the splendid Ribblehead Viaduct on the Settle-Carlisle Railway and White Scar Cave, Britain's longest show cave. The latter is well worth a visit for its caves, stalactites and stalagmites and can consume a couple of hours with no effort.

One of the main attractions of Wensleydale itself are Aysgarth Falls, where the River Ure cascades over a series of three falls in a very photogenic environment. It's well worth a visit and the nearby Visitor Centre caters for most needs, particularly in the ice cream and cake line!

For lovers of wild country there are several picturesque white roads over the moors from Wensleydale to Swaledale, including Hawes to Thwaite whose main attraction, apart from the views, is the Buttertubs; Askrigg to Muker; Askrigg to Low Row and Redmire past Castle Bolton to Grinton.

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© Peter Hillier-Brook 2003—2012
Last updated  26 March 2012